Tornqvist Coffee – Hamburg (DE)

One of Hamburg’s most dedicated and possibly radical coffee professionals runs the city’s most exquisite coffee pop up and it’s now open again for winter

  • wifi:
    Yes
  • urls:
    FacebookWebsiteTwitter
  • price check:
    Double espresso: €2,60 / Flat White: €3,20
  • machine:
    La Marzocco Linea
  • coffees on offer:
    various filter roasts from Drop Coffee, La Cabra & Koppi
  • milk:
    Reitbrook

PLEASE NOTE: TORNQVIST OPENED UP ITS FIRST PERMANENT CAFE RECENTLY. THIS REVIEW IS ABOUT ITS PREVIOUS POP UP

Ever since specialty coffee truck operator Linus Köster of Tornqvist Coffee moved into a temporarily closed ice cream shop in Hamburg’s St. Pauli neighbourhood, local coffee nerds have literally been losing their s***.

It’s not every day that you come across a coffee professional who has such radical views that you literally have to do a double take before you understand what he’s trying to tell you because what he believes in, he delivers with the sweetest smile. But, no matter what your own view on specialty coffee are, when visiting Tornqvist Coffee you are in for a treat.

Linus at his current pop up location

Linus at his current pop up location

What began with a traveling coffee truck that showed up at weekend markets, outside universities and other locations, Linus started building a fiercely loyal following amongst those people who wanted a coffee experience that stretched far beyond serving different single origins or using filter brew methods that many locals still view as pretty exotic.

‘Coffee is a fruit. In fact it’s a cherry and the so called coffee bean is just a pit, really,’ Linus explained during our first meeting. ‘I know most people will think I’m crazy when I say this but technically it’s the truth.’ And this is just the beginning. ‘I really don’t like the espresso. It’s a concentrate that needs to be diluted. That’s why, when I finally open my own permanent coffee bar, I will only have the flat white and filter coffees on the menu. There won’t be any espressos, cappuccinos and so on,’ Linus went on. Now, if this doesn’t rattle some cages?

An exquisite flat white

An exquisite flat white

Looking back now, Linus has come a long way. When he had his first cup of Scandinavian roasted filter coffee – no names will be revealed here – he thought it was so awful and sour he could barely finish it but the bearded barista who prepared the coffee for him was so scary looking that he was too afraid to express his view. Yet, over time he grew hugely fond of coffees roasted by Nordic roasters, and he’s a staunch fan of Drop Coffee and La Cabra.

‘Another thing I don’t do is serve espresso roasts. All of the coffees that I use for my espresso-based drinks are bright filter roasts,’ Linus said while preparing a gorgeous cup of La Cabra’s Altos from Costa Rica. Like Drop Coffee, Linus also works mostly with the Kalita Wave, a brew method that is highly sought after.

Linus preparing a perfectly brewed filter coffee

Linus preparing a perfectly brewed filter coffee

Indeed, throughout the entirety of my stay, I witnessed a great many people coming in who seemed to come specifically for Linus, even if they had to wait a good while before their coffees were ready. And, another thing I noticed and really liked about his approach to serving coffee was his use of flat tumblers rather than cups. He told me that he liked the use of the small glasses because they forced people to take greater care when handling the coffees and allowed them to get much closer to them.

For a city that is still far behind other European cities with regards to its specialty coffee culture, the presence of Tornqvist is certainly another breath of fresh air. What’s more, Linus has promised a ‘golden coffee ticket’  to anyone who can help him and his business partners find the perfect location. ‘We’re looking for a place that is at least 100m2, has room for our brew and espresso bars, and can host a kitchen. If you know just the place and you can hook us up, you’ll get a life-time supply of coffee from us,’ Linus promised.

Scandinavian roasters are well represented

Scandinavian roasters are well represented

Now, what are you waiting for? Help this man out!

 

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