Specialty coffee is taking the world by storm. No matter where you look these days, you’re almost never too far from a great coffee bar that’s showcasing coffee in its purest forms. Either as a delicious single origin espresso or a fragrant cup of filter coffee. But, while this is true for most of the world’s developed countries there are still large differences with regards to how far these coffee scenes are developed.

During a recent visit to the Spanish capital Madrid we caught up with the city’s first specialty coffee roaster, Barry Randall of Randall Coffee Roasters, to find out how the hotly tipped ‘new foodie capital of the nation’ is embracing great coffee.

The Coffeevine (TC): Barry, how did you discover the world of specialty coffee?

Barry Randall (BR): I have always wanted to create or build something of my own, to take control of my life and have a business. While searching looking for ideas and inspiration, I read about the story of a guy who started his entrepreneurial career by roasting specialty coffee. That really sparked my interest and I started investigating all of the speciality coffee scenes all around the world and I was just blown away by what was happening in the world of coffee. I already liked the wine culture but coffee somehow really gripped me.

TC: What was the state of coffee in Madrid when you first started roasting in 2013?

BR: When I first started roasting in 2013 it was more of a personal thing for my own consumption, family and friends and I took it as a continuation of my training in the coffee world where I obsessively roasted and cupped coffee while also trying beans from all of the speciality coffee roasters I could lay my hands on.

It was in 2014 when I really started the business and roasting commercially and there was absolutely no dedicated speciality coffee roaster in the city at that time, just some old style artisan roasters with origin coffee. In all fairness I don’t think they’re quite up to the standards that most third wave roasters are on these days. The coffee shops that were focusing on really high quality coffees were very few at the time.

TC: Are Madrileños adventerous when it comes to trying new things?

BR: I believe they are. In Madrid and Spain in general there is a love for drinks and food and lately there has been a real trend with regards to quality food. Being a ‘foodie’ has started to become a thing here.

We already have great wine, great food, high class restaurants and chefs… the only thing holding back speciality coffee is a long tradition of really bad coffee. I think in places like Australia or the UK it was much easier to develop a great specialty coffee scene because they never really had a coffee culture to begin with. This can definitely not be said of Spain or Italy for example.

TC: Why did it take so long before the city started developing a specialty coffee scene of its own?

BR: Again, I think the long tradition of torrefacto (coffee beans with a burned sugar coating) and mediocre coffee in general were important factors that kept holding us back. It takes a whole rethinking of the coffee drink… that it’s not just a black liquid you mix with sugar and drink to wake up. You have to change people’s understanding of the product before you can help them adopt it.

“…in the next few months there will be a lot of thing happening in Madrid and in other parts of Spain.”

TC: How did you envision the impact you could have on the local coffee scene without actually operating your coffee bar to showcase your coffees?

BR: My vision was to look at the impact that specialty coffee already had on other places. The speciality coffee movement has conquered (sometimes faster and sometimes slower) wherever it has gone, because there is always a place in the market for better quality products. I also knew it wouldn’t be a sprint but a long distance race and I was conscious that it would take time to sink into the Spanish and Madrileño mindset. But I also wanted to be part of the beginning of this scene, helping to build it from scratch was an adventurous (and a slightly crazy) dream I had. It totally became reality.

TC: What is the criteria you use when you select the coffees you want to roast and sell?

BR: I have my own personal preferences, but they are not always the best options when you want to sell the coffee and make a living out of it. So you have to listen and learn from the clients and the businesses and adapt to what they are asking for. I obviously want to raise the bar and give them something that impresses them but I can’t be totally self-centered in my interpretation of what is the best coffee. That said, I do try to offer coffee options that go well in filter preparations and not only espresso focused beans.

TC: During our recent visit it seemed that there was something brewing in Madrid but with regards to filter coffee it still seemed that there was little to no availability of those brew methods. What is your take on that?

BR: My take on that is that it is true and it has to change! And businesses must realize that there is not much to lose and quite a lot to gain by including filter coffee in their offering. It does take some time, a little investment and training for the staff… but if you want to serve good coffee you need baristas with proper training and knowledge anyway, so why not go all the way?

TC: Now that people have started discovering specialty coffee what do you think will happen in the next few months?

BR: Since I started it has all gone very slowly, as expected, but with a steady pace. There have been a few new places opening and each month I am contacted by more people with upcoming projects or that are interested in the coffee and it does seem to me that in the next few months there will be a lot of thing happening in Madrid and in other parts of Spain.

TC: Are there any projects that you are personally very excited about? Places where your coffee will be served?

BR: I am excited by a few projects but can’t really mention much about them yet and I do have in mind to start my own coffee shop in the not so distant future to be able to close the circle of the coffee process, from the green bean all the way to the perfect cup that I would love to serve to my customers.