When you come from the flattest country in the world where the most outrageous incline for miles is an ancient bridge with a rounded top, you develop a new sense of respect for the residents of cities like San Francisco or Lisbon where ups and downs are the norm. During a recent visit to the Portuguese capital, my calf muscles got a proper workout as I hunted down the city’s best coffee shops, but as they say in many gyms: ‘no pain, no gain’.
After a long day of sightseeing with the family, I dragged my parents and sister up a steep street that led us to Fabrica Coffee Roasters, the city’s first specialty coffee roaster to properly introduce third wave coffee to Lisbon. This particular outlet in Baixa is actually their second location and, at the time of my visit, it was being prepared to welcome the company’s Probat roaster currently housed in their first shop further north.
The space is big and bright and feels a lot more airy than its older sibling, but obvious similarities in look and feel remain. Fabrica has somewhat of a nautical theme to it, possibly inspired by Portugal’s seafaring past, and as a result each café sports lots of wooden elements, yute and vintage furtniture.
Interestingly, Fabrica itself has a very international history with founder Stanislav Benderski’s parents originally emmigrating to Portugal from Russia and him spending much time living abroad before he came back to Lisbon to set up his specialty coffee business. (Fun fact on the side: his parents still run a Russian restaurant in the city that carries his name. More info here.)
When I visited, Head Barista and Shop Manager Bruno Oliviera was behind the machine and he walked me through some of the products that were for sale in the shop part. Next to a surprisingly large selection of Fabrica branded apparell, you could also stock up on its fine selection of coffees, including favourites like the Ethiopia Aricha, bottled cascara soda and craft beers from Musa.
There is also a decent selection of sandwiches and pastries here but the star of the show is Fabrica’s coffee. So if you happen to tire after walking up and down and up and down through Lisbon’s gorgeous streets, pop in here for a refreshment and to get your strength back. Because honey child, you will need it!
